The Alaskan Highway
Wednesday, July 29th, 2009
Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson to Toad River, British Columbia
Here we are on the Alaskan Highway. We’ve come through some beautiful territory in British Columbia. We arrived in Dawson Creek, mile zero of the Alaskan Highway, possibly remembered by some of you as the “AlCan Highway.” The highway has changed a lot since its inception and building during World War II. I won’t go into the particulars, but they’re easily available on sites such as Wikipedia. It’s an interesting story for anyone interested in the particulars.
We had a delightful time in Dawson Creek. We stayed at the Mile 0 RV Park Saturday and Sunday nights. We had a corner lot, directly across from the laundromat. We spent Saturday afternoon resting up, getting the oil changed in the man truck, cleaning up the camper and vegetating. It was nice to sit back and realize we didn’t have to get up and hook up the camper Sunday morning and pull out.
We were even able to take Maggie outside without fear of her flying off. Her wings are severely clipped so that she can’t do more than jump and she got frustrated when she could hear us sitting outside the door talking. I have a little harness/leash thing that I bought and tried on her a long time ago, but she goes bonkers when I try to put it on her. I got it out again and she got so caught up in trying to chew it to pieces that she didn’t even realize when we stepped outside and she didn’t have it on. She sat on my knee chewing on the thing for quite awhile, getting head scratches and looking around.
We had checked about local churches on the internet and Gary noticed that there was a small Baptist church right next to the campground when he took the truck to get the oil changed. It was only a short walk across the grass to the building rented by New Beginnings Baptist Church. We were so glad we went! The pastor, Michael Stark, is a native of Kansas who has worked planting churches all over the western U.S. and Canada. He hit a high note with Gary when he told him North Carolina is o.k, but the moose and elk hunting suck. It’s still a small church number-wise, but I doubt it will stay that way long. The people were very friendly and most everyone was gathered around the coffee pot and pastry tray when we entered. One of the announcements was that you were welcome to help yourself at any time during the service.
The sermon was hard-hitting. As one lady told me, “If you come to church to be made to feel good, you’d better find another church.” I jokingly told the pastor afterwards that I needed to go home and nurse my wounds. As it turned out, we didn’t leave right after the service. Just our “luck,” the church had planned a picnic after the service and invited us to stay. Would we say no and hurt the feelings of these fine people? Not on your life! We had a good meal and great conversation. And we’ll see these fine folks again someday. If you’d like to hear a good sermon, go to www.NewBeginningsBaptist.ca.
We chilled and napped the rest of the day, preparing for the big event of Monday morning—on to the Alaskan Highway. We got (for us) an early start and merrily rolled along mile after green mile. We are back in lodgepole pine country and you can see the damage done by pine borers. Acres of dark green trees with the rusty orange of dead trees making horrible splotches of ugly in the beauty.
British Columbia is a beautiful province. It is very rural. There are tiny settlements separated by l—o—n—-g stretches of highway. There are “look out for wildlife” signs everywhere along the highway. We haven’t seen the first wild thing yet, although we did see some elk farms in Alberta where they actually raise them for meat. The poor things probably think they are in heaven: Wow, all we can eat without browsing and foraging. Gee, they bring this hay and stuff right here for us to eat! Maybe people aren’t so bad as we thought. “Hey, George, why do you reckon they’re wanting us to line up in this here chute? Oh well, as long as they keep the hay coming . . . .”
We saw vast fields of hay and more canola in B.C. and the highway has obviously been worked on since 1943. The agreement with Canada when the AlCan was built was that the U.S. would foot the bill, then turn the highway over to Canada six months after the end of the war. Since then Canada has taken out a lot of the switchbacks and straightened a good bit of it. At one rest stop we saw a sign that showed a portion of the road that had been re-routed. It said that there were several theories about why the roads were built that way in the first place. One was that it was for the engineers to practice doing curves, another was that the Japanese, when they arrived, would not be able to strafe as well on curves.
We spent Monday night in Fort Nelson. It was pretty dry and dusty at the Bluebell Motel/Service Station/Grill/Campground & RV Park, but they had water and electricity. We could theoretically do without them, but it’s easier if we have them, especially if there’s a pumpout.
There’s a whole lot of drilling going on around here. We ate breakfast at a hotel that had old drill bits lined up along the walk leading to the front door. Many of the businesses are connected to drilling for either water or oil, possibly both. The ones that don’t directly connect to drilling in some way are there to service the ones that do. And the breakfasts they serve are fit for a wildcatter.
We went through some more gorgeous scenery between Fort Nelson and Toad River. The mountains just go on and on, one range after another. In some places the road goes straight for kilometer after kilometer. The don’t use miles here any more, although the old mile markers are still used to denote places. Toad River is at mile marker 422. We crest a hill and see another mountain range behind what we thought was the last one.
The story of how Toad River got its name is that when they were building the highway, of course there were no bridges, so this was the “towed river.” But someone didn’t know the difference between “towed” and “toad.” The “town” consists of an airstrip (with a big sign saying “Keep off the airstrip”) a motel/gas station/RV park/gift shop and possibly the world’s largest collection of caps nailed to the ceiling of the restaurant/gift shop.
Our camper is parked next to the lake, and after dinner we sat and watched the sun start to set. It doesn’t get dark now until nearly 10:30 p.m. Maggie sat with us awhile too. We saw a moose across the lake eating her evening meal. I tried to get a picture, but she didn’t show up, even with the zoom all the way out.
The folks next to us had the back window of their Jeep Cherokee pop out today. They are on their way to Fairbanks to visit their son. They had a plastic mat to lie on for changing tires, so just spread that over the window till they get home to Michigan. Repairs are very expensive—as is most everything else out here.
Our poor Prowler is probably going to be pretty beat up when we get home, too. First, we had to take the trim pieces off the dinette seats. Every time one of us slid in or out they creaked and threatened to come off anyway. The next thing to go was the drawers under the wardrobe in the bathroom. I didn’t know they were designed to hold something about the weight of a feather pillow, so I filled them with wet wipes, bathmats, toilet chemicals and a few odds and ends. Turns out they are (were) supported by balsa wood attached to more balsa wood with staples. Now they are in the back of the truck because Gary can’t get down on his knees to fix them. Next to go was the convenient shelf that holds toiletries and can be conveniently slid into little notches above the toilet and be convenient while one is doing one’s toilette. The convenient shelf was attached to slides attached to balsa wood with staples. Now the inconvenient shelf rests on top of the supply of toilet paper I had stashed underneath it. I hope the floor isn’t attached to balsa wood with staples. We didn’t bring a Sears & Roebuck catalog with us.
I told Gary as long as the bed doesn’t collapse and the toilet keeps working we’ll be o.k. Sort of like the boat. But it is nice having an oven and a fridge that I can get more than a stick of butter and a quart of milk in. The bed is on a board-type thing. I just hope it’s not held in place by staples. If it is we’ll find ourselves sleeping on a pile of boots and heavy jackets we brought for the cold weather that we haven’t seen any of yet.
The Alaskan Highway is mostly good road. But when it’s bad, it’s horrid. There are places called “heaves” that are pretty aptly named. The road heaves and the truck goes down while the trailer goes up, then they switch places and bounce pretty good. Things you thought were securely lashed are found in strange places when you stop. Also, there is a lot of gravel being used on the road. That causes dust. Lots of fine, fine dust. It’s most everywhere. Fortunately, it’s so fine you can’t feel it grinding away the enamel on your teeth. The scenery makes up for all this. If you wait for the dust to settle you can get some great photos.
Tomorrow we’re on our way to Watson Lake. We’re getting close to the Yukon now.
(Sorry, no pictures, I can’t find the camera cord. It’s probably in the truck and I’m ready for bed. I’ll put them in the next blog.)